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Throwdown: Tony Vallone vs. Albert Roux

Tony Vallone insisted I try his lobster and asparagus risotto with a poached egg on top. What the hell, right? I had asked Vallone if he had been up Chez Roux to meet the famous Chef Albert Roux and he admitted he hadn’t been there yet. So I told him about the phenomenal appetizer at Chez Rouz with the soft-boiled quail eggs and asparagus tips in hollandaise. The next thing I knew, Tony Vallone summoned a waiter and started whispering orders.

And then this oversize bowl arrived with the risotto inside. After I snapped a photo, Vallone personally tossed the risotto so that the egg yolk was incorporated into the lobster and asparagus rice. Talk about a rich bowl of risotto.

I can’t really say whether I liked Tony Vallone’s or Albert Roux’s dish better. The quail egg and asparagus was so simple. But how can you complain about the addition of lobster and risotto? I will say this: Albert Roux’s dish might be better with risotto, because the egg yolk and hollandaise is so rich by itself. And if Tony V. switched from a poached hen’s egg to a couple of soft boiled quail eggs, his risotto dish would go from outstanding to outrageous.

Tony V. is a big fan of Gordon Ramsey, which is one reason I really think he ought to go to Conroe and meet Albert Roux the next time the French chef is in town.

And as you can tell, I am having a lot of fun not being an anonymous restaurant critic anymore.

4 comments to Throwdown: Tony Vallone vs. Albert Roux

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