Breakfast Sweetbreads

Most people go to Gerardo’s for the awesome barbacoa on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Some swear by the crispy carnitas. I like the barbacoa de borrego and the chile rellenos too. But don’t ignore Gerardo’s sublime mollejas. You can buy them by the pound or by the taco.

Deep-fried sweetbread tacos are a lovely way to start the day. You’ll find them on the steam table buffet at Gerardo’s Drive In Grocery on Patton St. just east of I-45 in Houston.