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We Got Hacked!

The RobbWalsh.com “Texas Eats” website was down for more than a week due to technical difficulties. If you tried to find us while were out of commission, we apologize.

It seems our server got raided by interweb evil doers. We ended up with the  “WordPress Pharma Hack.” Every time we tried to send [...]

Denis Wilson Reborn as Chickenman

Seafood chef Denis Wilson, the name behind Denis’ Seafood and the late Jimmy Wilson’s Seafood and Chop House, is back in business in a North Houston fast casual restaurant called Louisiana Homestyle Kitchen. Only this time, instead of seafood, he is specializing in free range chicken.

The menu is a veritable Bubba Gump litany [...]

Texas Cioppino


Chef Maurizio Ferrarese of Quattro Restaurant in the Houston Four Seasons hotel and I collaborated on a Texas cioppino last Friday. Maurizio invited me to join him in the kitchen as part of the Guest Chef series there. I know, I know, I am not really a chef. But I do work in a lot of kitchens–mainly developing Tex-Mex recipes.
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Texas Whelks, Escargot-style

In the cookbook published years ago by Antoine’s restaurant of New Orleans, the author claims that when the dish known as Oysters Rockefeller was first invented, the French chef was actually looking for a substitute for escargot. Had that chef looked a little harder, he might have found a much closer cousin to the European snail.
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Underbelly and El Real

Chris Shepherd

Chef Chris Shepherd’s new restaurant, Underbelly, will be next door to the Hay Merchant Craft Beer Bar in the old Chances building–across the street from our very own Tex-Mex joint, El Real! I ran into Shepherd at the Farmer’s Market last weekend. Alison Cook had just reported the news. Underbelly will [...]

Everybody Likes Spaghetti

Maurizio Ferrarese

Chef Maurizio Ferrarese of Quattro Restaurant in the Houston Four Seasons hotel was very kind to me when I paid the restaurant a visit last week. As I reported here, when he heard I was disappointed that Vitello Tonnato had been taken off the menu, he whipped up a plate of the wonderfully bizarre veal and canned tuna combination for me. Chef Ferrarese, who is a native of the region near Milan, has only been in Houston since July and he hasn’t had much of a chance to look around. So I offered to take him out to lunch. Where did I take the young Italian chef?

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Thin Pizza, Stuffed Pasta and Canned Tuna

Thin crisp pizza at Caffe Bello

The pizza at Caffe Bello Taverna and Pizzeria at 320 Westheimer came on a cracker crisp crust that was a little charred around the edges. It was a delicious appetizer–but it would not have made much of a meal. We tried the one with sausage and peppers for lunch the other day and practically inhaled it. Luckily we also ordered a salad and some pasta.

Thick cheese pizza at Quattro

The pizza at Quattro, the Italian restaurant in the Four Seasons Hotel, was gooey with cheese and loaded with mushrooms, onion and salami slices. The first slice was stellar, but the crust got kind of gummy after the pizza sat on the table for a while.

I thought a lot about these two pizzas.
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Gaido's Regaining Its Glory

Head Chef Casey Gaido

I had a stunning crab salad and an elegant red snapper in lemon butter at Gaido’s last week. I also met the new head chef, Casey Gaido. Casey is a recent CIA grad and a fourth-generation member of the founding family. Now that Casey is in charge of the kitchen at the hundred year old seafood restaurant on Galveston’s seawall, he promises that the once-legendary cooking will return to its roots.

“In 2006, you wrote a review in the Houston Press titled “Fish on Its Laurels” that I read every week,” Casey told me when I met him. I was embarrassed. It was obviously a bad review, but I didn’t remember what I wrote. So I reread it when I got home. I faulted Gaido’s for being so inconsistent. On one visit I thought I had died and gone to Galatoire’s–and on the next my dinner guest remarked that the place felt like a “gone-to-seed country club.”

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Restaurant Week Is For Crabs

This is the height of the blue crab season and wild shrimp fishing is underway as well. It’s also Houston Restaurant Week. When people ask me where to go for the $35 dinner specials, I recommend the places that are featuring crab and shrimp. Like Haven for instance–Chef Evans has a crab cake [...]

CIA, Texas

The CIA San Antonio campus at the Pearl Brewery Complex on the north end of the Riverwalk is undergoing a major expansion at the moment. The new CIA building will celebrate its Grand Opening in October with an open house. CIA Antonio, officially became the Culinary Institute of America’s third campus in 2008. The school was founded to realize a dream – El Sueño – to elevate Latin American cuisines to their rightful place among the great cuisines of the world, and to expand diversity within the foodservice industry.

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