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Dear Audrey: Texans Deserve Better?

Katie Walsh comments on a recent article in the Daily Texan:

The chile relleno at Matt’s El Rancho in Austin—which was Lyndon B. Johnson’s favorite dish here—came covered in queso instead of ranchero sauce, by request.

My sister Julia ordered the Grilled Old Fashioned tacos, which we’ve been eating here for at least 20 years. We’d just caught wind of the recent Daily Texan opinion piece, and we both took a moment to marvel over the absurdity of insulting such beautiful, delicious food before happily digging in.

In case you missed it: Last week, in a twisted shout to the 65th anniversary of the family-owned establishment, a columnist named Audrey wrote that Tex-Mex was “distinguishably disgusting”; “white-trash snack food wearing an inauthentic Mexican mask.” I have so many questions, Audrey.

Where ya from? How many Google clicks did you give your research? Ever *eaten* at Matt’s? And most importantly, where the heck have you been getting your Tex-Mex?

Matt’s El Rancho was opened by Matt and Janie Martinez in 1952. Matt grew up selling tamales, chili and pralines out of a wooden pushcart on Congress Avenue for his father, who had a Tex-Mex joint called El Original. Today, Matt and Janie’s daughters run the restaurant. The recipes have been passed down for generations and the in-house tortilla factory grinds its own non-GMO corn. Like many of our Tex-Mex staples here in town, they’ve even got multiple vegetarian options, @veg_lomein.

I’m not sure why you chose the anniversary of the Martinez family legacy as the occasion for your uninformed rant, but I apologize to them on your behalf, and tbh I’m kinda stunned at your ability to mindlessly erase the history of an entire family and an entire culture in a few poorly-formed generalizations.

Katie Walsh at Matt’s El Rancho in 2008

This isn’t the first time someone bashed Tex-Mex with the ugly bastard stick. Back in 2012, I wrote a piece for Latino Magazine about the ongoing, impassioned fight about Mexican food culture and the lines we draw between “authentic” Mexican and the ever-evolving foodways of Mexican-Americans. Purists like author Diana Kennedy agree that Tex-Mex is “inauthentic,” but the question is, to whom?

As yourself and Diana and countless others like you have failed to recognize, the American regional cuisine known as Tex-Mex is and always has been Texan, even as the political and geographical lines that define the state changed. Tex-Mex cuisine actually dates back to the Spanish mission era of the 1700s, and tells the unique sociological story of Tejanos: native Texan peoples, Mexican-born Texans, and their descendants.

Tejano history is deep and rich, and it has been the driving cultural force in Texas since long before any of us had opinions about the authenticity of its food. After learning Spanish agricultural practices, Tejanos created the iconic Texas ranching tradition—which, by the way, would later be adopted by the Czech and Central European settlers you’d rather we celebrate. Tex-Mex is the food of Tejanos.

In his book “Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America,” Gustavo Arellano illustrates the dismissal of Tex-Mex and other modern, American-born adaptations of Mexican food as a dismissal of Mexican-Americans themselves with this quote from writer Jesse Sanchez:

“Tex-Mex is important to us because it’s our bond to Mexico, even for us born in the United States. And it’s just Mexican food to us. Are we less Mexican or Mexican-American because we are Tejanos? We consider ourselves all part of the ‘Mexican food’ family and are surprised to hear when people speak of our food—or us—with disdain. The critiques sound elitist to us, and that says a lot coming from a state where we claim everything is bigger and better.”

Elitist is a good word. Audrey—girlfriend—you say that the three main ingredients of “flavorless tortillas, bland rice, and lackluster beans” “should be enough to send any well-minded consumer running in the opposite direction.” Who exactly are these “well-minded consumers”? You mean white folks with money?

Tortillas, rice, and beans are central to the cuisine of many Latino cultures, including “authentic” Mexico’s. They are often important foods for the nutrition and survival of the working poor and impoverished (and even some of your fellow students), and both in restaurants and in family kitchens they are prepared with the same steps and spices that have been used by grandmas and great grandmas and great great grandmas.

I actually feel bad for you. I’m so curious where you found all this tepid muck you insist is the “cornerstone” of Tex-Mex. I’ve been eating buttery flour and floral corn tortillas, veggie-studded rice, and rich, long-cooked beans since I was a baby. I’ve sampled them in numerous local Tex-Mex restaurants and in the homes of many Mexican-American friends. They are almost always bursting with flavors; soft and bold, herbal and earthy, creamy and spicy.

So Audrey, I really wanna know—who fed you such a shitty meal and why did you decide it defined a whole cuisine?

Look, I get it—you had some crappy, cold queso and some under-salted beans, you ended up in a cheap dive that reheats Mission premades and questionable meat on greasy plates, you picked the wrong restaurant—happens to the best of us. But Audrey, mama, you can’t just write off an entire people and their food because of your bad experience.

Or maybe you just don’t like it, and hey, that’s cool too! 

I know plenty of folks who don’t like the heavy use of easy-melt cheeses in Tex-Mex—it “never looks too far off from Velveeta” because most of the time, it is. And there’s a reason for that. I acknowledge that it isn’t a healthy option, but nonetheless, there’s history behind it that deserves respect.

As a family friend named Richard Flores explains, Velveeta and cheeses like it likely worked their way into Tex-Mex tradition due to the historically lower socioeconomic status of Tejanos. His and many other families depended on the 5-pound blocks of “government cheese” that were handed out to low income families in the ‘70s and ‘80s to fill their enchiladas.

“You couldn’t buy queso fresco when I was a small child. It wasn’t available. So you used what you had, and what we had was American processed cheese,” Flores said.

You could’ve made a great argument for updating traditions like these now that we’ve got higher quality options. But to flippantly brand the food that defines the experience of many Mexican-Americans in this state as “white-trash” and “inauthentic” isn’t only terribly misinformed, it is a perfect example of the tone-deaf ignorance that continues to distance white folks from our brethren of color, at a time when what we really need is solidarity.

To then suggest that we should instead focus on the European influences on our state is, whether you intended it or realized it or not, both a racist and neocolonialist way to look at the world.

As a matter of fact, Texas’s other most famous food, barbecue, has long suffered from this very same racist viewpoint. While Mexican vaqueros and African-American chuck wagon cooks contributed equally to Texas barbecue history, it is often only the Czech and German traditions which receive recognition and credit. Oops.

Audrey, our state was shaped by First Nations peoples. Our state was shaped by black people. Our state was shaped by brown people from Mexico and brown people who were born here. Our state has been shaped and reshaped by these peoples for centuries and it is dynamic and beautiful because of it. Celebrating their influences on our food traditions, whether we like them or not, isn’t just important, it is our duty as white Texans living in a world that already does enough to erase the merits and existence of people of color.

I’m really, really sorry you had such a bad bowl of queso. But don’t be a jerk, Audrey. Tejanos aren’t white trash, their food isn’t disgusting or flavorless, and Texans don’t deserve better. In case you haven’t heard—no matter what tradition we come from—we’re already the best.

-Katie Walsh


Review: Mama Frances Soul Kitchen

Smothered pork chops were the special on Thursday at Mama Frances Soul Kitchen. The pork chop plate comes with a mound of homemade mashed potatoes and savory brown gravy plus two sides. I went for some very porky tasting mixed collard and mustard greens and the creamy black-eyed peas.

The five-table restaurant’s slogan is “The Small Place with the Big Taste.” It’s located on Vauthier St. in La Marque. From the Vauthier exit on I-45, drive a mile or so east until you see the La Marque High School buildings on the left–Mama Frances is right across the street in tiny shopping center. The restaurant is open Monday to Friday 11 am to 6 pm.

The place is named after Shirley’s mother, who never actually worked there, but who provides inspiration from afar. Mama Frances is a home cook in the small town in South Carolina where Shirley grew up.

When Shirley was a child, Mama Frances started a catering service. Her food became so famous that patrons would pack her soul food dinners and holiday cakes in dry ice and fly them all over the country.

Mama retired recently on reaching her 80th birthday. But Shirley is betting she will reopen temporarily over the holidays. Mama Frances just can’t stay out of the kitchen. It seems like a family obsession. Shirley’s daughter Kirsten is a buyer for Whole Foods and also runs a popular muffin and cupcake bakery in Katy called Glorified Muffins.

We were the first customers for lunch at Mama Frances Soul Kitchen at 11:30 am on Thursday. Our meal began with a square of crumbly, hot out-of-the-oven cornbread and butter.

I also sampled Shirley’s spectacular gumbo, made with fresh crabs, shrimp, fish, chicken and sausage. The soup owes its depth of flavor to stock made with lots of seafood and a walnut brown roux. The gumbo isn’t always on the menu, but if its available, give it a try.

My dining companion had the succulent baked chicken with rice and peppery chicken gravy. Rice and gravy fans will love this rendition. Her sides were cheddar-rich mac n’ cheese and some unremarkable green beans. She washed these down with a cold A&W root beer.

Dessert was pear cobbler which looked glorious, but I was too full to eat it. So I ordered it to go. There was also a peach cobbler in the oven, Shirley told me, and while I was tempted to wait, I decided the chance to sample more desserts would give me an excuse to return soon.

“On Fridays, we put out a whole spread of desserts,” Shirley said.

I highly recommend Mama Frances Soul Kitchen.

See you there next Friday.

London Taco Tour: El Pastor

London is now a taco town! Over the last two years, some excellent taquerias and innovative Mexican restaurants have opened. And tacos have been deemed “the food trend of 2017” by some London food bloggers.

So we sent our correspondent, Julia Walsh, to London on a taco tour. We’ll be posting her London Taco Tour updates on Taco Tuesdays!

Here is her latest report: 

Despite its central location across from the Borough Market just south of the London Bridge, El Pastor feels like a hidden gem. Tucked away on a tiny side street with a very Mexican-looking sidewalk dining set-up, it’s a delightful place to drop in for some tacos between sightseeing and shopping. People are constantly coming and going in this highly populated neighborhood.. Despite all that, I never saw anyone wait for a table.

My waiter Gaëtan, from Paris, helped answer my questions as I reviewed the menu. There were many delicious sounding options, including an Ahi Tuna Tostada and a Prawn Mojo de Ajo taco, which he noted was a popular choice. I decided to keep it simple and to the point by ordering just the Chicken and the Pork Al Pastor.

24-hour marinated pork al pastor tacos

The tacos at El Pastor are served in pairs on emerald colored glass plates, with tortillas made in house with a combination of white and blue corn. My first bite of their namesake taco was awash in deeply sweet, caramelized pineapple married with rich, smoky pork that is marinated for 24 hours before cooking. The pork tasted amazing, though it was “well smoked” and a little dry. Luckily, the juicy pineapple pieces and guacamole made the dryness of the meat hardly noticeable.

I hadn’t ordered any chicken so far on the London Taco Tour, and the chicken taco reminded me to give chix a chance! Sadly the chicken on my taco was dried out as well. I still enjoyed every bite of the big, delicious flavors from the chipotle, cumin and adobo rub and the onions, taquero salsa, and cilantro added lots of moisture and fresh flavors.

Maybe it was the time of day, but the proteins on the El Pastor tacos I sampled left something to be desired.

Para todo mal, mezcal. Y para todo bien, tambien. — Oaxacan saying.

El Pastor’s mezcal selection made up for their less than spectacular tacos.. There are two mezcals listed on the back of the food menu with the other drinks, and there’s an impressive list of seventeen options on the dedicated mezcal menu.

If you aren’t acquainted with mezcal, the name describes a family of distilled spirits originally made in Mexico by baking the heart of the agave plant in an earth oven, fermenting it and distilling the alcohol produced. Tequila is a mezcal produced in a specific area limited by law (much like a European AOC). Mezcals are produced across Mexico, most famously in Oaxaca.

At El Pastor, you can choose between a 35ml pour, or a carafe of either 150ml or 250ml (now we’re talking!). All the mezcal is served with a traditional garnish of an orange slice sprinkled with  sal de gusano, a Oaxacan condiment made by drying agave worms in seasalt, grinding them, and mixing the salty powder with chile costeño). It’s surprising tasty stuff if you can get over the idea of ingesting insects.

I decided on the Meteoro brand mezcal, which was described on the menu as “an earthy and sweet snog.” The meaty, leathery flavor of the drink fit the poetic description perfectly.

El Pastor’s alluring outdoor dining area in the thick of London and its selection of exotic Mexican libations make it a wonderful spot to grab a few tacos and a drink. As I sat and sipped my mezcal alternating between people watching and chatting with my waiter, the sun slipped ever lower in the sky and I felt no inclination to leave my perfect perch.

As to the interior of the restaurant, well, my apologies for the lack of a description. It wasn’t until I examined my photos some time later that I realized I had forgotten to look inside.

All Photos by Julia Walsh

London Taco Tour: Breddos Tacos

London is now a taco town! Over the last two years, some excellent taquerias and innovative Mexican restaurants have opened. And tacos have been deemed “the food trend of 2017” by some London food bloggers.

So we sent our correspondent, Julia Walsh, to London on a taco tour. We’ll be posting her London Taco Tour updates on Taco Tuesdays!

Here is her latest report: 

Breddos closes from 3-5 pm in that slack period between lunch and dinner. I rushed across London despite delays on the tube, slipped in the door at twenty minutes to 3 and asked politely if I could get a table. The staff was doing paperwork and relaxing in a couple of empty booths as the kitchen was beginning to shut down, but they still happily seated me.

The tacos and tostadas of the day when I went in.

The cozy restaurant has mostly bar seats, a few booths, and a large table in the middle that seats twelve. The decor here is simple shapes in bright colors on a background of white.

The wall across from the kitchen/bar entrance features shelf after shelf of vintage vinyl LPs. A turntable spins on the table beneath them. When the records occasionally skipped, I felt a wave of endearment for the whole place. The sound just fit the vibe somehow.

Stevie, my waiter, slid into the opposite side of the booth with an easy smile, asked if I’d been in before, and chatted with me about the daily specials. Breddo’s does a rotating daily menu and all the tacos are popular, he said (though there are a few “favorites” that repeat in various forms from day to day). I decided to order the Pork Al Pastor, the Baja Fish, and the Carne Asada.

Stevie also recommended a Mezcal Tonic with what I’d ordered, especially on such an unusually hot day. It was a delightful mash-up of Mexican and traditional British flavors, with the Mezcal and orange blending together smoothly and the quinine bite of tonic on the end to finish it out. I was only a few sips into it when the rest of the plates hit the table. The tacos were served on two 3-3.5 inch tortillas, which might seem dainty or cute, but these tacos pack a mighty punch!

The Pork Al Pastor taco

The Al Pastor, described as pork neck roasted over the pineapple pieces, was delicious, falling-apart tender with only minor notes of pineapple. I was just about to take another bite when all hell broke loose on my tongue. Fire, fire! This was easily the spiciest thing I’ve eaten in England (aside from curry). The menu called it salsa negra, but the light green sauce looked like a tomatillo-based salsa.

Reaching for my drink on instinct, the blend of mezcal and orange mixing with the pineapple and heat was a beautiful thing. What a pleasantly picante surprise. Some London taco fans were reluctant to recommend Breddos to me because of the spice level here. They insisted the chile heat made the tacos hard to enjoy. Not for me!


The Carne Asada taco

The Carne Asada was by far the sexiest-looking taco, and the flavor didn’t disappoint. Aged hanger steak, cooked medium rare, was placed on a base of onion crema, then topped with miso & marrow butter. Wow! You don’t get a lot of marrow butter on your fajitas back home.

The heat came from a bright and spicy chimichurri, which was a great counterpoint to the onion crema while also underscoring the richness of the miso and marrow butter. Let’s just say I don’t have more notes because it disappeared from my plate rather quickly!

The Baja fish taco

The Baja fish taco was a little disappointing. The batter on the fish was kind of chewy. I admit I also ate this one last, and it also could just have been that I was there when the kitchen was winding down for the break. Either way, it was still tasty, and the purple cabbage went a long way in making up for lost crunchiness. The fish flavor fit nicely between the strong bright habanero lime mayo and the lightly charred earthy tortilla.


For a little something different, I ordered the Pulpo (Octopus) Tostada. The octopus was tender with pleasantly chewy edges, served on top of crispy potato cubes over a base of avocado, with marrow butter on top. The crispy and delicate tostada broke apart easily for eating and added a tiny bit of sweetness with the avocado. After a short time, the potatoes and the tostada were soaking up the rich, salty marrow, kicking the decadence up a notch. The whole thing was absolutely delightful to eat. One of the day’s salsas, a pasilla Oaxqueno & roasted tomato, had a smoky, strong roasted flavor with minimal heat and was an especially nice compliment to the octopus and marrow.

I took notes and ate tacos at a leisurely pace while the staff worked and bantered nearby, never batting an eye as my camera clicked. It may have been especially true due to the timing of my visit, but the attitude of the whole place was quite relaxed. I know shift meals are common, but my heart swelled two sizes when I noticed that the staff setting the communal table to share a meal together. There was something about it that spoke of a deep camaraderie, like a glimpse into the heart of the restaurant.

The staff of Breddos (minus Stevie). Thanks, guys!

According to their website, Breddos started as a makeshift taco shack and has since risen to the heights of releasing a cook book and taking part in the cook-off at LA’s Tacolandia festival in 2016, among other things. (My Dad is the curator of Tacolandia, Houston!)

All of their tortillas are made in house with non-GMO corn that is ground on a volcanic stone mill, which makes a notable difference in the flavor. They certainly deserve their good reputation based on these mouthwatering tacos.

London Taco Tour: Corazón Taqueria

London is now a taco town! Over the last two years, some excellent taquerias and innovative Mexican restaurants have opened. And tacos have been deemed “the food trend of 2017” by some London food bloggers.

So we sent our correspondent, Julia Walsh, to London on a taco tour. We’ll be posting her London Taco Tour updates on Taco Tuesdays!

Here is her latest report: 

During my reporting on the Manx-Mex Chronicles, I was invited to go down to London for a taco tour. There has been a huge uptick in the number of Mexican restaurants, taquerias, and mezcal bars in the last year or so, and bloggers all over are raving about them! So I packed my bags and headed to London.

I would have liked to get a breakfast taco but found nothing open before noon, so I spent the morning in a coffee shop narrowing down top 5 restaurants based on menu and distance. Soon I was strolling over to Corazón Taqueria. The building looks and feels like a beach home in Cabo – open, airy, decorated in blues and whites reminiscent of the sea.

Arriving about half past noon, I was mildly surprised that the place was entirely empty except for myself and the staff (just after opening on a Monday isn’t their busiest hour). Choosing a seat was easy thanks to the open, accordion-style window overlooking a couple of small white tables on the outside.

I looked over the menu. One page was the “Counter Offer”, which was a plate of two tacos with sides. I was more interested in getting a variety of tacos, so I stuck to the regular menu. After chatting with the bartender I knew the most popular sellers on the taco menu are the Carnitas, Baja Fish, and Guv’nor (king prawns and baby shrimp grilled with peppers, tomatoes, and onions). I ordered the Carnitas, Barbacoa, and Baja fish tacos to compare with the Mexican flavors I’m used to.

The Carnitas taco – pork cooked in orange juice, cinnamon, and Mexican oregano.

I started with the Carnitas taco, which was stuffed with a combination of shredded pork belly and collar. The pork is slow cooked in orange juice, Mexican oregano, and cinnamon then topped with bits of crunchy fried skin and flecks of pickled jalapeño. It was served with a classic roasted tomatillo salsa that had a low level, creeping heat. The orange and cinnamon were stronger and sweeter than I’m used to, which added another dimension to the rich pork, making an excellent taco. And all wrapped up in a house-made tortilla! I breathed a sigh of contentment.

The Barbacoa Taco – lamb shoulder and liver cooked low and slow.

I eagerly dug into my next taco, the Barbacoa. Corazón’s version of barbacoa was a combination of lamb shoulder and liver, wrapped in banana leaf and cooked for 7 hours. When I ordered it, I’d had a dreamy vision of tender, flavorful lamb paired with creamy liver for a double whammy of richness, but unfortunately, the long cooking time meant the liver had become tough and crumbly, which took away from my pleasure in eating it. The lamb was rich and had a dark red color to it, but even with the added liver, it seemed sadly one dimensional in flavor after the carnitas taco. The salsa served on the side was mind-blowing, though. It’s made with tequila, tomato, onion, tomatillo, ancho, chipotle, and honey, which created a smokey and complex sauce and gave the taco life.

The Baja Fish Taco – exceptionally crunchy battered fish over cabbage with chipotle mayo.

The Baja fish taco was another pleasant surprise. Despite being left until last, the battered fish was delightfully crunchy. All of the tacos at Corazón are well-stuffed, but this was an enormous piece of meaty fish, with an excellent crispy batter, on top of crunchy cabbage with a chipotle mayo. I hate it when the fish gets overpowered by the creamy sauce, but the chipotle mayo was light and not too sweet, a perfect compliment. The whole thing was served on a blue corn tortilla, which had it’s own lovely, mild sweetness that’s different from a standard corn tortilla.

Taking out the camera and shooting sexy close-ups of the tacos kind of tipped off my bartenders and servers, Verena and Nick, that I wasn’t just grabbing a casual lunch. After admitting my goals for the day, we chatted about the menu and the items they like, as well as other taquerias in the area.

Verena has been a bartender for years and worked all over, including at Glastonbury. Her family is Rastafarian and Muslim, so she didn’t eat pork when she started working at Corazón. But when they had a menu tasting, she said to herself, well, I have to try it. When she first bit into the Carnitas taco, she was wooed. And when she recently sampled an item that will be coming to the menu soon (whole pig head boiled in stock, which is then reduced with booze and butter and served on a mass (pan)cake), she said it was “so amazing.” “Well, I guess I’m back [to eating pork]!” she laughed. Her description made me wonder when it would be feasible to visit London again after it made its debut.

The atmosphere at Corazón is pleasantly relaxed, and I had such a great time lounging around and eating delicious tacos near the window on this beautiful, sunny afternoon. Laura Sheffield, the boss and owner, is from College Station, Texas and worked with a Mexican anthropologist to develop the menu. No wonder that these tacos made me feel like I was back home in Texas.

I think Verena could tell I was reluctant to leave this little oasis despite the day ahead of me, because she invited me back for a margarita that evening to continue our chat. I thanked her and told her honestly I’d be happily flopping into bed at the end of the day. It was getting late so I said a fond farewell and zipped out the door to my next destination.

Manx-Mex Chronicles: Manchester’s Top 5 for Tex-Mex

I’ve had a wonderful time here in Manchester, and have had some hilarious and some great experiences while hunting down the available Tex-Mex as part of the Manx-Mex Chronicles. As a wrap up to the series, here are my Top 5 Tex-Mex tastes of the series by post.

I am judging these by the food accuracy (how close it is to actual Tex-Mex or food you’d find in Texas) and overall enjoyment of the food and the location. Counting down from number 5 (least) to number 1 (most):

Number Five: Un Burrito at Chango’s

This post makes number five because the burrito itself was good, made with accurate and delicious ingredients, offered a great variety of tasty hot sauces, and had a convenient, casual location. It’s not a place that feels like you’d want to hang out longer than it took to eat, though.

Number Four: Enchiladas at Las Iguanas

Despite the odd serving choices (A simple enchilada in a burrito sized flour tortilla? A lake of refried beans with a rice island in the middle?) the flavors on this dish really made it stand out. The refried black beans were more than just a bland paste and the roasty, chipotle flavor in the red sauce really made this dish shine.

Number Three: Crazy Cal-Mex at Luck, Lust, Liquor and Burn

While these are definitely in the realm of Cal-Mex instead of Tex-Mex, I really loved the nachos we had at LLLB, as well as the place itself. The drinks were my favorite overall (I still drool remembering that super smooth añejo mezcal and excellent Lagerita with grapefruit!), they have a great location in Northern Quarter, and little details like the tiles on the tables and crazy menu style made me feel relaxed and at home. The nachos were fun and offered over the top choices mixed with traditional ingredients, were covered heavily and evenly with toppings, and stayed crispy to the last bites. Plus, just LOOK at that pile of jalepeños!

Number Two: Fajitas Bonitas at Chiquito

Maybe it was because the place was empty when we went, but Chiquito had a more relaxed than fun feeling to it. The drink selection was very good, and these steak fajitas made my heart soar when they hit the table. The smell, the sizzle, the taste! Medium rare steak slices over sweet onions and bell pepper rolled into tempting tacos was a bite of Tex-Mex taste. It was a journey home on a plate, and definitely a great dish!

Number One: Mission de Mayo at Las Iguanas

Yes, I already did a dish from Las Iguanas, but it really was a satisfying experience and my favorite location overall. The restaurant is brightly colored, full of lively customers, and has good deals on appetizers and drinks which add to the upbeat and fun vibe. After a string of disappointments, these nachos felt like a gift from above!  These are what I consider to be the closest to the kind of nachos I know and love – A plethora of traditional toppings, gooey melty cheese, and a good ratio of chips to toppings.


Manx-Mex Chronicles: Moving On!

Tortilla chips and salsa, chili con carne, and fajitas are now typical European bar food. Rare is the English pub that doesn’t serve “nachos.” The influence of Tex-Mex on world cuisine fascinates us here at Texas Eats. So when our correspondent, Julia Walsh, moved to Manchester, England in January 2017, we asked her to chronicle Tex-Mex influences on the local English fare. Here is her last report:

Well, friends, my time in Manchester is coming to a close. I’ve had a blast checking out the local take on Tex-Mex and reporting back to you. Watch for a round-up in coming weeks of my Manx-Mex Top 5!

And to end my English Tex-Mex reporting with a bang, I’m heading to London!

The staff of Breddos eating an afternoon meal


There’s currently a new wave of Mexican and Tex-Mex spots in Soho and the West End, and I’ll be visiting as many as I can in a final wrap-up mini-series to be titled: London Taco Tour. Keep an eye out for links posted to Facebook on Tuesdays under #LondonTacoTour!

I’ll see you all back here next TacoTuesday with my first report!

Galveston’s Italian Olive Tradition

Manx-Mex Chronicles: Chapter Fifteen: What’s On Offer

Tortilla chips and salsa, chili con carne, and fajitas are now typical European bar food. Rare is the English pub that doesn’t serve “nachos.” The influence of Tex-Mex on world cuisine fascinates us here at Texas Eats. So when our correspondent, Julia Walsh, moved to Manchester, England in January 2017, we asked her to chronicle Tex-Mex influences on the local English fare. Here is her latest report:

In Chapter Thirteen of the Manx-Mex Chronicles, I mentioned that the understanding of Tex-Mex among the locals here in the UK seems to be mainly informed by the Old El Paso display in the grocery store.

After writing that, I realized that taking a closer look at what’s on offer at the grocery store might provide some more insights into the taste for Tex-Mex among the locals (the grocery store is only going to offer what sells!) and tell us more about the Tex-Mex influence on the UK’s food culture. So I took my camera and strolled around the local grocery store, documenting what I found.

Let’s begin with the obvious. This is the “Mexican” section of the store:

All THREE of my salsa choices!

The yellow branding of Old El Paso dominates the shelves, taking up more than 50% of the space. Most  of the boxes are quick meal kits and taco shells, both hard and signature standing style. There are only three kinds of salsa available, though my favorite friend, Cholula, is present. Demand for normal tortillas also seems low – the tortillas take up only a tiny half shelf of the section (By comparison, on the other side of the aisle, the naan and papadums take up four times that amount). This is also the only area of the store where you can find sour cream or guacamole, (actually, it’s a guacamole “style” sauce). I’m not sure how I feel about these being made shelf stable, as I’m used to both items having to be refrigerated.


I also use the quotations around “Mexican” for a reason. Approximately a quarter of the section is dedicated to sauces and seasonings that are from South America or Central America. They even say so on the package!

Peruvian, Venezuelan, and Carribean flavors featured here.

If you came this area of the store looking for authentic Mexican and Tex-Mex items, I’d say you’d be sorely disappointed. However, as I continued searching, my spirits were lifted. While the “Mexican” section may be a bit pan-Latino, Tex-Mex flavors are infiltrating the entire store.






The deli section offers both a “Mexican style” chipotle shredded pork and beef, as well as Mexican flavored chicken fillets. I was naturally suspicious of what these Mexican-flavored items might actually be made with, but I found cumin, chilli, oregano, garlic powder and onion powder in the ingredients, so they didn’t seem far off the mark.

There was a Chilli con Carne flavored pizza available (usually pizza places here have some kind of Mexican flavor featuring jalepeños for the bold), as well as a Mexican chicken bake meal (chicken covered in mild bell pepper and chilli salsa, cheese, and tortilla chips), and a frozen barbacoa taco meal from TGIFriday’s. Some snacks I saw offered seemed alright but had odd twists thrown in (like a Mexican rice and bean snack with harissa sauce, which is associated with Tunisia and Libya).

Mexicana cheese is another interesting find. Mexicana is a brand, but it seems like it’s also become a variety of cheese.  The one I got from the store says it was prepared by the cheesemonger, so I don’t think it’s the actual brand. It doesn’t have a specific ingredient list either, but it says it contains “spicy chilli and mixed peppers”. The cheese tastes strongly of cumin, is pretty spicy, and makes a hell of a quesadilla too.

But what surprised me most was finding some honest-to-god Tex-Mex in the prepared foods section. I thought that it would be easier to find true Tex-Mex in a restaurant than in the grocery store, but I may have been proven wrong.

Both this Chilli con Carne and Fajita Chicken actually SAY Tex-Mex on the label, and are recognizable Tex-Mex dishes–even if they did pair the Chilli con Carne with plain rice!

What I took away from this experience:

  1. UK Tex-Mex is here to stay.
  2. Mexican flavors are wildly popular in the snack food category (though finding something spicy is still hit or miss).
  3. The geography of Latin America is a bit blurry in this part of the world.
  4. The only tequila in the store is a small bottle of plata (silver).

But most of all, I found that Tex-Mex is now embraced by the mainstream, even if shoppers are only beginning to be offered what Texans would consider real Tex-Mex.

Manx-Mex Chronicles: Chapter Fourteen: Crazy Cal-Mex

Tortilla chips and salsa, chili con carne, and fajitas are now typical European bar food. Rare is the English pub that doesn’t serve “nachos.” The influence of Tex-Mex on world cuisine fascinates us here at Texas Eats. So when our correspondent, Julia Walsh, moved to Manchester, England in January 2017, we asked her to chronicle Tex-Mex influences on the local English fare. Here is her latest report:

Tucked in the corner of a building in the winding streets of the Northern Quarter, Luck, Lust, Liquor & Burn (or LLLB for short) shares the street with a just a few other eateries and a couple of well curated little shops. We opted to sit at a long, thin table topped with Mexican-inspired tiles in the back of the downstairs seating area, close to some windows facing the ornate doors to the former Manchester Wholesale Fish Market. On their website, Luck, Lust, Liquor & Burn describes their restaurant concept like a rock’n’roll road trip. “We drove from Vegas to Mexico in a frenetic haze of food, booze, and all the naughtiness that the Golden State had to offer. Luck Lust Liquor & Burn brings bold exciting Californian style Mexican food to Manchester’s Northern Quarter.”

After my report last week, I wanted to specifically seek out Tex-Mex dishes and restaurants and give them a fair chance to represent their take on the regional cuisine of my home state. I have to admit that there are few restaurants here that have a dedicated Tex-Mex menu or theme, but many of them offer a mixture of Tex-Mex, Cal-Mex, and Mexican dishes or a menu with a mixed Latin influence. I narrowed my search to “best nachos in Manchester” and was presented with a list of options, but the highest rated among them seemed to be Luck, Lust, Liquor & Burn. One review specifically mentioned an even covering of toppings on the nachos (the lack of which I’d been lamenting about my nacho experiences so far) so I decided I had to try them.

The menu is stylized to look like a taped together collage made of punk attitude and delicious, over the top items. We started out with a pint of San Miguel lager, two shots of mezcal, and a Lagerita (a margarita made with grapefruit juice and mixed with San Miguel – unusually good and refreshing!). I’ve been struggling to find any mezcal here in Manchester, especially a reposado or añejo, so that smooth, smoky shot was a real treat and a great start to our visit.

The regular menu offers three different types of nachos, but the bar menu gave six scrumptious sounding options. I decided to go with the simple Cheese Bean Goodness Supreme, which sounded the closest to a classic Tex-Mex nacho as they offered on this menu. (I haven’t seen any other restaurant offer refried beans on the nachos!) My boyfriend chose the Volcano Nachos, which included beef chili with chorizo.

I was a little worried when our trays of nachos hit the table. There seemed to be plenty of their colorful chipotle sour cream, taco sauce, and “guac” (more like an avocado sauce to me), but I didn’t immediately see any melted cheese or refried beans on my chips. However, I was relieved to find that they were just buried underneath the sauces and the pile of jalepeños in the middle of the plate. The refries were simple and somewhat bland,  but they were still a welcome change from what I’ve eaten so far with plenty of melty cheese to go with them. The sundried tomatoes were also a nice twist on the classic flavors. I had to split the toppings between fully loaded and barely covered chips, but I was pleased that even the chips in the very middle of the Mount Toppings stayed crunchy down to the last bite.

The Volcano Nachos looked almost exactly the same as my own plate, except that you could see some of the beans and corn kernels from the chili sticking out between the layers (blasphemy in Texas, but widely accepted and loved here in England). The chorizo gave the chili a more complex flavor than the normally sweet chili-con-carne here and complimented the chipotle sour cream and guac sauce beautifully. They definitely had more of a spicy kick than my own nachos, which only made the drinks go down faster.

Though I know they’re not classic Tex-Mex, I’m sure I’ll go back to Luck, Lust, Liquor & Burn to try out some of their other dishes or have a go at Taco Tuesday (all street tacos for £1!).


As a note, I’ll be visiting Belgium later this week, so next week’s update will be postponed until June 19th. I look forward to seeing you then!