I am still thinking about the soft-boiled quail eggs with asparagus tips tossed in hollandaise (or was it béarnaise?) that I had at Chez Roux in February. It was one of those brilliant dishes that seems all the more inventive because you could pretty easily make it yourself at home. I think you can buy quail eggs at Central Market. And most of us can muster up a reasonable hollandaise in the blender.
The real treat at Chez Rouz was meeting the legendary Albert Roux, the man who taught Gordon Ramsey how to cook.