While I was in New Orleans for the Louisiana Oyster Producers meeting, I joined Dr. John Supan on the annual oyster-eating tour he calls his “entourage.” We started with the charbroiled oysters at Drago’s in Metairie. These are prepared on a gas grill by dumping garlicky butter and oil on shucked oysters until the flames shoot up all around the bivalves and char the parmesan cheese and the oyster shells. The char is the key to the incredible flavor. As I reported in Sex, Death & Oysters, these are among the best grilled oysters on the planet.
Drago’s didn’t even serve grilled oysters when it opened 40 years ago.
Drago’s was opened by Croatian immigrant Drago Cvitanovich. Many of Louisiana’s oystermen are Croatians, some of them live in Louisiana during the oyster season and Croatia the rest of the year. Drago worked for two years as a shucker at Acme Oyster House in the French Quarter before opening his own oyster bar and restaurant in 1970.
Drago’s son Tommy is the second generation owner of the popular restaurant. It was Tommy who invented “charbroiled oysters.” Today, 90 percent of Drago’s customers order Drago’s version of grilled oysters. Drago’s Seafood Restaurant and Oyster Bar, 3232 N. Arnoult Road, Metairie, Louisiana, (504) 888-9254