Three new Irish cookbooks that tap into the “seacuterie” trend have recently hit the shelf of my kitchen library.
“Seacuterie” a cutesy spin on the word Charcuterie, is a term currently making the rounds in the culinary world. It refers to an array of preserved seafoods served with accompaniments mimicking the preserved meat arrangements on the ubiquitous charcuterie boards.
While smoked fish, potted fish spreads and seafood patés are all common to the genre, it is “tinned fish” that’s the become the star of the show.
Tapas by Anna Cabrera and Vanessa Murphy includes a recipe for Pulpo a la Gallega, rounds of cooked octopus tentacles on boiled potato slices topped with olive oil and pimenton.The Spanish taverna plate may be the classic example of the seacuterie genre.
Canned “conservas” are featured as part of the Vermouth apertif ritual called a Vermutillo in the Tapas book. (Conservas is the word for tinned seafood in Spain.) It was the vermouth connection that led me down the seacuterie rabbit hole to begin with, but more on that in another post. From Blasta Books.
Ciara’s Catch by Ciara Shine, co-owner and marketing director of Shine’s Seafood of Killybegs, Donegal focuses on the recipes using that company’s products, but includes plenty of ideas for fresh and smoked fish too. Most of the recipes are contributed by the company’s many brand ambassadors. The Tuna Paté, a spread made by blending tuna with butter, mayo and seasonings, is perfect for a seacuterie board. Available at Shine’s website.
Whole Catch by Aisling Moore, head chef and founder of the famous Goldie seafood restaruant in Cork, is the “gill to fin” guide to cooking with every part of the fish. A tinned seafood fan, Moore likes her ramen with canned mussels or clams. Her Whole Catch recipes include the famous Tonnato Dressing of the Italian Piedmont, made with a can of tuna along with the Café de Paris compound butter made with anchovies. From Blasta Books.
You can buy the Ciara’s Catch cookbook from Shines website as well as some rare items, like Ventresca tuna, that you won’t find in supermarkets. You can also see the full range of Shines products along with Shine shopping bags, refrigerator magnets and gift items at the Visitor’s Center in Killybegs, Donegal. Be sure and have your photo taken inside the World’s Largest Sardine Can while you’re there.
If you’re interested in checking out some super-premium tinned seafood, aged French sardines, canned clams, bottled bonito and much more. Visit Gannet’s website. They boast Ireland’s largest selection of gourmet tinned fish and they deliver all over Ireland.
Meanwhile, here’s a recipe for your next seacuterie gathering:
Pouldoody Potted Sardines
Here on Pouldoody Bay in the north of Clare, we love our local oysters, crabs and mackeral. But we also keep a large supply of sardines, tuna, and anchovies on hand for seacuterie spreads and Vermutillo apertivo sessions. Here’s a lovely way to share a can of sardines with guests. Give it a try and tell us what you think.
Can of sardines, packed in olive oil, drained
Package of cream cheese
Half a red onion, minced
2 green onions, chopped
Dash of hot pepper sauce
Handful of capers
Parsley or dill, minced
Lemon juice
Worchestershire sauce
Salt and pepper
Save the oil from the can for another use. Combine the other ingredients and mix together by mashing in a bowl by hand, or processing in a blender–the spread can be as chunky or creamy as you like. Chill for a few minutes for flavors to combine and to allow the spread to set. Spoon the chilled spread into ramekins, smoothing across the top. Garnish with a few capers, a bit of lemon peel or both.
Serve on a seacuterie board with bread or crackers and a spreading knife.